Disciplined is one word for this season's LV collection; kink is another. The silhouette sculpted jackets, blouses that buttoned up the back, and below-the-knee pencil skirts were a few millimeters more forgiving than the ones at Mark Jacobs last month. They were bisected by waist-defining belts in shiny cordovan. Pants weren't a focus of this collection, but the ones Jacobs did show had a jodhpur shape—the discipline of dressage. And puff-sleeved, Peter Pan-collared French maid uniforms came tricked out in plasticized lace or decorated with appliqués in the shape of platform pumps, masks, and handcuffs. As for the kink, where to start? There were rubber dominatrix boots (instant hits, those), see-through flasher macs, and let's not forget the lace-ups that exposed a bare expanse of Kate Moss' thighs below retro briefs.
Moss, waving a cigarette and smoking in every sense, was only the super-est of the supes on the polished black runway. Their bag of tricks this season was the reinterpreted 1958 top-handle Lockit bag, sometimes affixed to the models' wrists with diamond handcuffs.-thousand-dollar luxury handbags—and provoke like Jacobs can.
What can I say? Mark Jacobs as always is full of surprises, you never know what will pop out on the runway from his extraordinary imagination.
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